Knit Along Simple Spring Swing Cardigan Week 1

Submitted by Anonymous on Wed, 2011-06-08 09:19
Knit Along Simple Spring Swing Cardigan Week 1

Do you know what today is?  It’s Wednesday!  Today we are starting our Knit Along, Simple Spring Swing Cardigan.  Is this your first sweater?  If you know how to knit and purl, you will be able to knit this sweater.  Let’s take an adventure and learn new skills. This knit along is for new knitters as well as experienced knitters.  We will begin working on the back of the sweater first.  Here is the first of 3 video’s to help you get started Simple Spring Swing Cardigan video Part I.

We will have weekly posts over the next 5 weeks, however, there isn't a time frame to complete your sweater.  We invite you to share your tips, ask questions, share your progress and help each other along the way ... and don't forget to post pictures of your progress on our Red Heart Yarns Facebook page. This is a great place to make new friends.

Let’s get started! 

Comments

elemenopeo's picture

edge stitches to slip as in video

Submitted by elemenopeo on Tue, 2011-06-21 16:21.

I still don't understand this technique as it applies to this sweater from the video description. I want to know how to handle the garter sections with the slipped stitches. Do I knit them as I would the rest of the garter section OR do I slip both beg and end stitches knitwise throughout the garter section? And then slip knitwise on knit rows and purlwise on purl rows in st st section both beg and end stitches? (The video specifies what to do with the first stitch but not the last one.) Please help.

gwenythlove's picture

Back to knitting...

Submitted by gwenythlove on Sat, 2011-06-18 09:20.

I used to knit quite a bit with my grandmother and my ex-mother-in-law. Since I am now divorced and my grandmother is gone I haven't done any knitting in a long time. It's almost like I was afraid to knit without those two behind around to support me. I saw this KAL and knew I just had to try it. I hope it's not too difficult for my beginner again skills. I am more of a crocheter now. I picked up some yarn and needles yesterday and got started. I am just 2 rows into the first SS part now. It's looking better than I thought it would!

MMN1963's picture

KAL Spring Swig Cardigan

Submitted by MMN1963 on Thu, 2011-06-16 23:31.

started sweater today. Garter rows done working on body now. Computer acting up, WHY? I just want to play along.

elemenopeo's picture

adding slip stiotches to edges

Submitted by elemenopeo on Wed, 2011-06-15 12:16.

I'm still a little confused as to how these work. I understand just adding two stitches to the total cast on. But how do I work them in the garter stitch vs st st? Do I slip them throughout both sections?Do I slip knitwise where I am knitting and purlwise where I am purling? I tried to look this up online and it looks like there are multiple answers so I am unclear on how to do it for this project.
Thanks!

elemenopeo's picture

gauge

Submitted by elemenopeo on Fri, 2011-06-10 23:14.

My garter stitch gauge swatch is done and I needed to go up to size 9s for that. Then I tried st st with the 9s and only was able to get 16sts to 4". So how do I go between the pattern sections with different needles then? I imagine I need to go back down to a size 8 for st st next to give that a try. If that works, should I use size 8 for st st and size 7 for garter? Or what else do you suggest?
Thanks.

Ann Blalock's picture

Continue to work gauge

Submitted by Ann Blalock on Wed, 2011-06-15 09:37.

Continue to work gauge swatches on different needles until you get the right gauge for the stockinette stitch. If you need to use a different size needle for that section, that's perfectly fine!

Let's say you need to use size 8 needles to get the gauge on the stockinette stitch. Work that part of the sweater with size 8. When you start the garter stitch section, you will need to move to the size 9 needles. How to do that? Simple--all you need to do is pick up a size 9 needle and start working the first row of garter with the size 9 from the size 8 you used for the stockinette stitch.

Just be sure to put that size 8 needle away when you reach the end of the row and pick up the other size 9! (And you can guess why I know to give you THAT hint!)

Ann

elemenopeo's picture

gauge

Submitted by elemenopeo on Mon, 2011-06-13 09:53.

I actually got gauge on the stst with size 7 needles. So does that mean I use 7s throughout the project?

Ann Blalock's picture

You'll use size 7 needles for

Submitted by Ann Blalock on Wed, 2011-06-15 09:46.

You'll use size 7 needles for the stockinette throughout the pattern, but to be safe, check your gauge in garter stitch, too. You may find you need a different needle to get gauge in garter and that's perfectly OK.

Ann

debbieann1961's picture

Help with instructions!

Submitted by debbieann1961 on Thu, 2011-06-09 19:48.

Kinda new to knitting (I'm a crocheter)....I'm confused about the instructions for the "Simple spring swing cardigan" I'm making the 2x size for my mom and already don't understand when it says "back....dec 1 st each side every six rows then it says 0 times, then every 8 rows 0 times, then every 12 rows 5 times" so how many rows before I get to the every 12 times? Do I do 6 rows even, then 8 rows even then start decrease on 12th row or 12 rows after the first 14? Very confused. So how many rows before I start dec?
Thanks in advance :)

Ann Blalock's picture

Remember to only work the

Submitted by Ann Blalock on Wed, 2011-06-15 09:33.

Remember to only work the numbers that are involved for the size you are making. The first number in the directions is for the size small, the second size for the size medium, and so on. The only number you need to worry about is the last number in the parentheses--this is the number for the 2X.

So when a pattern has a 0 in the position for your size, you can ignore that set of directions. For the 2X, you will decrease on the 12th row. This means that you will work 11 rows even (without increasing or decreasing), then you will decrease at the beginning and the end of the 12th row. You'll continue to work this way until you've worked a total of 5 decrease rows. At this point, you should have 116 stitches left on your needle.

Ann

shesfine's picture

KAL

Submitted by shesfine on Thu, 2011-06-09 07:43.

I have the questions as above - but a tip for casting on:
if you tend to work tight cast on with the larger needle BUT you must remember after the cast on to go back to the smaller needle when you start the garter stitch. This give the cast on row a little "give".

elemenopeo's picture

KAL

Submitted by elemenopeo on Wed, 2011-06-08 22:28.

I wonder the same things - plus I was a little confused about the part where you add two stitches to the cast on to slip at each end. I get the concept for the stockinette section - do I do the same for the garter sections?
Also, I am a little confused about the back shaping - where it says to dec every 6 rows 9 times, etc. I don't really understand how that works. How do I know how many times to decrease by 6 rows and when to move to the next decrease sections? (8 rows, 12 rows)?
I found the video really helpful though! I'm really excited about participating in the KAL for my first sweater in 10 years that isn't in a class. Thanks!

Ann Blalock's picture

The way you work the

Submitted by Ann Blalock on Wed, 2011-06-15 09:29.

The way you work the decreases depends on the size you're making. Remember, the smallest size is the first number in the pattern, the second size will be the first number inside the parenetheses, and so on.

So, if you're making the size small or medium, you'll decrease one stitch each side (this means decreasing at the beginning and end of the row) every sixth row a total of 9 times. This means you will work 5 rows even, which means without increasing or decreasing, then you'll decrease at the beginning and end of the sixth row you work. You'll continue to work this way until you've worked a total of 9 decrease rows.

For the Large and 1X, you will decrease on the the eighth row until you've worked a total of seven decrease rows. For the 2X, you'll work a decrease row every 12th row until you've worked a total of 5 decrease rows.

Ann

panddgon's picture

decreases

Submitted by panddgon on Wed, 2011-06-15 06:49.

I discovered that there is only one set of decreases for each size, so its just a matter of finding which one applies to you.

mkmurphy1992's picture

KAL

Submitted by mkmurphy1992 on Wed, 2011-06-08 10:06.

Thank you for the KAL.....I just love all the videos. The part one video leaves me with two questions. First, what method is best for casting on, and two, what method is the best for decreasing. SSK or K2Tog or something else. Thank you again, and I hope someone can answer my questions.

Ann Blalock's picture

Personally, I think the

Submitted by Ann Blalock on Thu, 2011-06-09 08:16.

Personally, I think the Long-Tail cast-on is the best basic cast on method for almost any situation. You may want to check out the video we have on casting on to see which method works best for you.

To see the video, you can click on "Learn" at the top of the home page, then scroll to the bottom of the page that pops up to see a listing of all the videos we offer. Casting on is currently on the third page of video listings.

As far as decreasing: ssk will give you a decrease stitch that leans to the left, k2tog gives you a decrease that leans to the right. To give your sweater a designer touch, you could use ssk at the beginning of the row, k2 tog at the end of the row on your decrease rows.

Ann